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Here lies perhaps our favorite fruit of India, the sunset-colored papaya. For the four months we've been here, papayas have been in season and available at every cafe, bus station, train stop, market, road-side stand -- or basically any corner, anywhere. I met the wonders of papaya during my first trip to India, when I was recovering from the fact that mango season was in late March-June. I thought my heart belonged to the mango, and it still beats strong -- they're just not here in India during the fall and winter months. That said, a chilled papaya, with a liberal smattering of fresh lime juice, is a succulent and sensual snack. Their orange flesh is almost human and both D and I delight in scraping across the whitish layer on top, giving the fruit a big scar. We are papaya murderers, with our bellies the most avid killers of all. Price check? 30 rupees for two small ones (better for ripening rotation). Blessed papaya season, I will miss you in the cold Pacific Northwest winters of my future.
Don't laugh too hard at this wee-banana. Here in India, they come in a variety of sizes, but mini is by far my favorite, as shown in this crazy cute post. I have already professed my love of the wee-banana, but it cannot be stated enough -- they're perfectly small, come in a little wrapper (convenient for stuffing in the purse), give me oodles of energy, can be eaten any time of day and they are the perfect mate for my beloved peanut butter. I am bananas for bananas you could say -- there's only one person more of a fiend than I, and that is dear David. He is the king, eating up to 3 or 4 in a day (more proof he is part monkey). Many flavors are found here -- sweet, sour, overly ripe and green. At 20 Rupees for 8, they are a clear winner in budget eating.
While we are traveling across South India with our brother and sister-in-law, Andrew and Stephanie, this week between Christmas and New Years (next stop: Vietnam!), I am offering a view into the delicious tropical fruits we've enjoyed in India with a series of fruity posts. Enjoy!
The first in this series is the CHERIMOYA, or "custard apple," as they call it here. These oh-so-sweet beauts remind me of a dinosaur egg or turtle shell. One taste and I was hooked on their pudding-like flowery flesh and smooth black seeds. They are so expensive in Santa Barbara and completely unavailable in Portland, so I am thankful to have eaten about 4 custard apples per week here. At 10 Rupees a piece, we ate with gusto and spit out the seeds on little tea saucers.
(scenes from the Panjim pool -- note all the rules -- they love the rules! and the little golden sandals, so precious.)We say goodbye to Panjim and the pool in a few days -- swimming was one of my favorite activities while living here. Despite my years at Junior life gaurd camp, I swim slow. I'm like a Southern drawl in the water. The cap they make me wear constricts my head and makes my hair look bad. Dave wears a 60's style Speedo. We laugh and float and conduct diving competitions with each other. My scores run from mid 7s to 8.5, D got a 9.2 one time. But there's really no better feeling than being mid backstroke and watching the crows caw by the dotted clouds, atmospheric humidity hanging low and the sky so big and pink.
This is fun -- One of my blog posts was published in the Fullerton Observer, as well as one of Dave's new ink paintings. Here's a snippet of the article.
(our combined sketches and notes in his beautiful notebook of designs and the small upstairs area where the tailor magic happens)
CHECK!After being fired by two tailors and shamed by one more, I finally landed in the "Cotton Cottage," on ice cream alley (the street is called something else, but with all the ice cream parlors, that's how D and I refer to the locale). In a last-ditch attempt to actualize my silk dress dreams, I chanced on one more guy . . . I should have known with a name like Shiva that he was going to tear it up-- no not my precious jewel-toned silks, in his amazing sewing skills! Communicating solely through drawings and hand gestures, a miracle occurred and he got it. He was a visionary and made me feel like a princess. It was an awesome last hurrah and I couldn't be happier to get rid of my grungy travel clothes and wear ridiculous dresses while on our journey -- twirling all the while!
Of all the Indian sweets I've tried -- this sweet yellow sugar bomb is my favorite -- a combination of barfi (condensed milk and sugar, with a fudge-like texture) and jalebi, it resembles a cupcake on acid. The interior cake is soaked and dripping with sugar water and the outside is covered in a milky frosting/fudge substance... It's so sweet, it hurts my head and my teeth -- but it's SO good. Topped with a few almond slivers, silver leaf and a candied cherry, it is a feast for the eyes as well as the tummy. I'm sure it's the smallest thing with the most amount of calories I've ever eaten (D looks at me like a crazy woman when I order one of these) -- but everyday is a work-out in Panjim, what with the bus-riding (abs to hold the body up as it speeds and bumps along the road), walking to and from market to house, carrying home groceries, swimming to escape the heat . . . A girl must indulge!
(the kitchen gets messy when the sauce is around.)
(pasta is tossed with the rustic sauce)Is there a correlation between the messier the kitchen, the tastier the lunch? This sauce and mess may prove the relationship between the two ideas. Usually, I clean as I go, but today, all the ingredients, tools, pots and pans just jumped out of their prescribed spot and into the action. Can you blame them? I mean there was a rustic pasta sauce to be had and everything wanted to join in on the party.
Pasta sauce in India? I was talking to my dad about a holiday party he attended -- while he mingles, conversation got to the good stuff -- the makings of tomato sauce. His friend insisted on 1 carrot for sweetness (a la Mario Batali, my brother and no doubt, countless others) . . . I was inspired by their conversation!
It got me thinking -- tomatoes: check, garlic: check, carrot: check -- surely a quick pasta lunch was in order, for the sheer joy of eating Italian food and the fact that the flavors would be so so different than the Indian foods of the past few months. It turned out pretty tasty! I could eat just the sauce by the bowlful.
Quick Rustic Tomato Sauce
1 large red onion, chopped into small pieces
1 carrot, shredded
8 roma tomatoes, roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 c olive oil
1 heaping tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp chili flakes
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried basil
1 pinch dried thyme
salt and pepper to taste
1 handful olives, roughly chopped
splash of water (or red wine)
Method:
In a large sauce-pan, sweat the onions in olive oil for about 3 minutes on med-high heat. Next, add everything else, and give it a stir. Cook without top for 5 minutes, then another 5 minutes with top on. Add salt and pepper to taste. Toss with pasta or eat straight with a piece of bread. Even better the next day, as flavors meld and develop. Enjoy!
(broccoli and asparagus salad meets my paint palette.)
While traveling in Asia, the food group I miss the most is salad --Adhering to the wise travel adage of not eating too many raw vegetables and fruits can be trying and also quite sad. In India, they don't offer much in the way of raw veggies anyway, so that's not much of a temptation and I can't resist eating all the tropical fruits that come my way (knock wood our tummies stay happy)! But I definitely miss the giant bowl of at least 6 ingredients (kale, shredded carrots, avocado, almonds, beans and broccoli are in heavy rotation) that usually end up at one of our mealtimes -- D and I affectionately call this our "big salad" and we eat our insanely big and colorful salad out of huge wooden bowls. They soak up the dressing and are the perfect vehicle for shoving the concoction in the mouth while watching a movie or reading a magazine.
I have been pretty quick to put the Cesar Salad and our "big salad" I've often craved out of my mind --- best not to dwell on the wonders of Pacific Northwest produce (ah lettuce!) and swell eating vessels . . . Until I saw broccoli and asparagus hiding at a vendor's stall in the corner of the market and decided to change my tune. Greenery was upon us! I thought -- okay, it's not lettuce, but with some blanching and some raw onion, we are in business! I quickly assembled this delicious, healthy and restorative salad -- and with the addition of juicy Indian raisins and walnuts, it really echoed the fall/winter flavors of home. It was all quite good actually, and very easy! I would highly recommend this dish to spruce up a winter meal, either as a side dish or on it's own with bread, cheese and a goblet of wine.
Also, this dish was delicious the next day when I added cooked pasta and a little glug of olive oil--melding into a winter/spring pasta salad. Either way, we were so happy to have some crispy veggies and fresh garlic flavor -- the perfect fuel for our latest projects . . .
Restoration Salad
1 bunch (about 1 lb) of asparagus, cut in half
2 broccoli crowns, cut into 1 - 2 inch pieces
1 medium red onion, sliced into thin rings (deli-sandwich style)
1/3 c raisins
1/2 c walnuts, chopped up a little
1 bunch basil, roughly chopped
dressing:
4 garlic cloves, minced
generous salt and pepper
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar (red wine or white wine vinegar would also be nice)
5 tbsp olive oil
1 heaping tbsp mayonnaise (or vegannaise is perfect here as well)
Method:
First prepare the salad dressing, whisking all ingredients in a medium bowl until a smooth, light yellow emulsion is created. Set aside.
Blanche asparagus and broccoli for 1 minute, on a rolling boil, then shock vegetables into a bath of ice water. Toss everything in a bowl, including the dressing -- serve with a crusty bread and some fried tofu for a perfect lunch.
(note the gorgeous bedspread and tasseled golden lamp)I'm amazed at what a new dress and a little mascara can do for a girl! I was a little down the other morning, for reasons still unknown, and after talking with my Mom, donning my new frock and applying a teeny bit of eye makeup- voila -- a new woman is born. It is so hot and humid here, my fashions usually revolve around what is the least amount of fabric, what state of dirtiness are my clothes (I've worn pants so filthy, they stand up when I take them off) and is everything looking kosher (don't want to scandalize the neighborhood with spaghetti straps)?
Having something new in the closet, finding the right brand of peanut butter (Skippy all the way here!), knowing the bus fare -- it's the small things that really bring me joy while traveling.
(I press the Kesari mixture into a little bowl and turn it over onto a plate, shaping it into a soft hill, just like the Karnataka folks do it.)
After eating Kesari bath every day during our travels in Karnataka, I thought I'd definitely be seeing it on restaurant menus here in Goa -- I had no reason to extra enjoy it's simple sweetness -- or that of its partner, Kara bath (a savory version) often sitting side by side on one banana leaf. When served together, the kesari and the kara bath become "Chow Chow Bath." I think we originally ordered the chow chow based on the melody of the name alone! We often order based on fun menu sounds here -- when eating at all-veg restaurants, you are totally safe from strange and yucky meats and only at risk of extremely fried items.
So, I recently figured out what "rava" is and found that it's another word for cream of wheat -- with that information, I tweaked the original and VERY sweet Kesari bath more to my tastes and also lightened up the dish, with a tad less ghee. My version is aromatic, fruity, moist from the pineapple, and has a hint of flowery taste from the saffron and the cardamon. I hope you enjoy this new dish! I'm definitely adding it to my breakfast repertoire.
Kesari Bath
(serves 4-5)
Ingredients
1 Cup Rava (cream of wheat)
3 tbsp ghee
1 heaping tbsp Sugar
1 c Milk (dairy, soy, almond -- whatever you like)
1/2 c Water
6 Cardamom pods, split open a little bit
1 pinch saffron
2 tbsp chopped almonds (or cashews, more traditionally)
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 c pineapple, roughly chopped
1/3 c mango juice (orange, apricot, or pineapple juice would work too)
4 dried apricots, diced into small pieces
Method:
First, chop the pineapple, dice the apricots and split the cardamon pods. This meal is much easier if everything is prepped and readied because it all goes pretty quick.
Heat ghee in a pan, add rava, stir and roast on low till a nutty aroma is obtained and some of the rava is turning golden. Set aside.
Meanwhile mix the saffron, pineapple, mango juice, cardamon pods, sugar, vanilla, and salt. Heat this fruit mixture on medium for 3-5 minutes until the pineapple turns bright yellow from the saffron and starts to cook down a bit.
Add water and milk to pineapple mixture and, finally add all of the liquids/pinapple mixture to toasted rava. Cook on medium heat until rava has absorbed all the liquids, it only takes about 1 or 2 minutes. Serve about 3/4 cup kesari bath along with chopped nuts (toasted is traditional, as well as raisins). This dish is perfectly accompanied by a lassi.
Serve hot or room temperature as breakfast or a snack. On a banana leaf for pure Karnataka flavor!
(First I contemplate the burger,)
(then I demolish the burger.)Is there any other food so happy and friendly as a burger? Self-contained, round, filling, the fluffy bun and tang/texture of all the condiments -- it's a familiar stop on the eating map. Burgers, in particular, are one of the more perfect vegetarian main dishes -- because, it's really all about what you put ON the burger, not the patty itself. The patty is the vehicle for all the fun: white bean, black bean, mushroom, tofu-- I love them all.
In fact, I frequently use the veggie burger as a barometer of a restaurant . . . In Portland, Sydney's does a vegan burger with homemade ketchup on a ciabatta bun sprinkled with kosher salt that is so sublime! I had a weekly study date with this hearty meal almost once per week during grad school -- I'm convinced it gave my brain the fuel to press on through those work samples. I'm also a fan of the other end of the spectrum -- Red Robin has a perfectly balanced veggie burger and an endless basket of seasoned fries. Need I say more? Wash it down with a diet coke, and I'm a happy lady.So we came across one 'veg burger' at our favorite restaurant and it was okay -- more importantly, it reminded me of the meal D and I love and why not make it at home? So I did. And we barely paused for air. And it was perfect with mango juice and cheese balls on the side.White Bean Tasty Burgerserves 42 1/2 c cooked white beans1 small red onion, diced1/2 tsp thyme1 tsp oregano1 tsp salt1/2 tsp black pepper2 tbsp fresh dill, roughly chopped2 tbsp floursprinkling of chili flakes3 tbsp olive oil, for cooking burgers4 fluffy burger bunsFor condiments:shredded cabbage, tossed in olive oil and vinegarsauteed tomatoesfresh raw onionmustard, ketchup, hot saucelime wedgeMethod:First, get all your condiments prepped -- buns ready to be toasted, tomatoes cooked a bit on each side, shred the cabbage and drizzle with olive oil and vinegar and put the ketchup and other sauces you like on the table. In a mixing bowl, add all spices and flour to beans -- mash with your hands so that about half the beans have turned to mush and the other half are still whole. Shape into about 6 patties, in the palm of your hand and let rest on a plate in the fridge while you assemble all the condiments. Heat a large pan on medium, add the oil and 3 or 4 of the burgers -- let brown, trying not to touch them for about 5 minutes on each size. The burgers will be a bit loose and imperfect, but that's okay because you can reshaped them a bit in the pan. Assemble each burger onto a toasted bun with all the fixins you like -- let the creativity flow! chutney, tomato sauce and bbq sauce would be delicious as well on these white bean tasty burgers. I love the hint of lime and loads of mustard and ketchup.
(oaties with candied walnuts, pomegranate seeds, bananas and dried apricot slivers)
(getting all the fixins prepped. look how friendly those little bananas are.)Even while living in the tropics, I crave oatmeal. It's cheap, healthy, and nourishing. Oats make me feel powered and full -- while still being reminiscent of a cookie or a slice of pie (especially in the summer, when I have left over berry compote to tuck under a layer of oats.)
For some reason, I eat my oats super fast, while D picks away at a reasonable pace -- I guess I just want to FEEL that carbohydrate energy!For such a humble and sustaining breakfast, I just wanted to highlight the ways you can elevate oaties to a gourmand status -- adjusting flavors and ingredients by taste and season-- here are a few add-ins to keep in mind when making oatmeal next time . . . the sky is the limit with this little bowl!
shredded coconut
berries and peaches in summer
pears and apples in fall and winter
fruit compotes
dried fruits such as figs, golden raisins or cherries are lovely
peanut butter
almond butter
candied nuts -- cashews and walnuts are my favorite
cocoa powder and sprinkle of sugar
flax seeds or ground flax meal
blobs of jam
spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice or cardamon pods
Oaties for 2
1 c oats (no quick-cooking)
1 c water
1/2 c coconut milk
1/2 c cow milk or non-dairy milk
1 tsp cinnamon
sprinkle of nutmeg
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
1 regular banana or two small ones, sliced thin
4 dried apricots, cut into slivers
seeds of one pomegranate
1/2 c chopped candied walnuts (recipe to follow)
dash of salt
dab of butter
1 tsp sugar
Method:
these oats are all about the assembly and mise en place -- get everything prepped and then cooking part comes together quickly. First, candy the walnuts. In a low heat pan, saute the walnuts, butter, sugar and salt, stir continuously until nuts get golden in color, about 5 minutes. Pour walnuts onto a plate and allow to cool, they dry out and get crispy during their time on the counter while you attend to the other ingredients. De-seed the pomegranate, and place all the little red jewels into a bowl for topping. Slice dried apricots (or dried figs, raisins, whatever you like) and slice bananas.
In a medium pot, place milk, oats, water, spices, vanilla, apricots and salt -- cook on medium-high heat for 5-7 minutes, until oatmeal has absorbed all liquids. Add bananas and stir for one more minute. Ladle out equal portions into two bowls and top with pomegranate seeds and candied walnuts. Delicious with a big cup of tea or coffee.
and, here in Goa, I'm having: pomegranate seeds, mini bananas, dried apricots and candied walnuts -- a winning combination I'll definitely repeat in the States.
What do you put in your oats? Any special ways of cooking them? I'd love to know!
(at top, vegetables await their cooking in coconut milk and ginger/chilies -- the most delectable combination)When we fist got to India, 3 months ago, we spent about 10 days in Kochi, Kerala. Amidst days of walking, chatting up fishermen, drinking chais, and spice tours, I stumbled onto a cooking demonstration by Jasmine. Dressed in a coral orange sari, gold jewelry and flowers in her hair and a can-do attitude, she was a force. I can still see her, a total goddess, in repose on her royal-blue velvet chaise lounge. I aspire to her color palate, cooking skills and ease in her own skin and sumptuous figure.
For some reason, I noted this recipe in my journal and completely forgot about it . . . But I was craving a light and tangy dinner, after ordering a heavy lunch at the Veg Food Court in the park. This really fit the bill! It's almost a Thai-style coconut soup in consistency and bright flavor, but it has that mellow Kerala Coconutty vibe too. The state of Kerala relies heavily on the coconut for food and other goods -- in Goa, where we are now, they still love their coconut (different, bigger variety of the rich fruit) but they usually use it just for fish curries -- and we're just not about the fish curry.
The Kerala veg curry was perfect with plain rice and will be even better tomorrow, after a night in the fridge of flavor-melding.
Cheers to Jasmine-- the coconut queen!
Kerala Veg Curry
(serves 4 - 6 as a main dish)
3 tbsp vegetable oil
4 cups green beans (about 1 pound), cut in half
5 large carrots, cut in half and then in 1/2 inch strips
1 bell pepper, roughly chopped
4 small onions, roughly chopped
2 inch nub of ginger, minced
5 large garlic cloves, minced
8 green chilies, top stem removed -- but leave chilies whole (the seeds can really burn in you start to cut into them and you are using the intact chili for flavor, not heat)
10 cardamon pods, pounded with a knife to open them slightly
3 cinnamon sticks, broken into a few pieces
1/2 tsp turmeric (for color)
1 1/2 cans coconut milk
1/2 can water
juice of 2 limes
2 tsps salt
for garnish:
extra lime wedges
cilantro
Method:
In a large pot, heat oil on medium. Add onion, chilies (leaving them whole!), cinnamon, cardamon and salt and saute until onions become slightly translucent. Add remaining ingredients and cover. Cook on high heat about 4 or 5 minutes. Remove lid and let curry cook down for another 2 - 3 minutes. Serve with rice and lime wedges for all. The dish is even better the next day.
(Our Gymkhana cards arrived at the swimming pool yesterday)
It happened. We ran into two people we know around town within days of each other. Our friend Kurt was picking up tri-pods for a viral media workshop and our landlord, Hazel, and I found ourselves opposite each other at a pastry shop-- they were out of the amazing cashew cookies we like, she for a "chocolate" cake. Then to top it all off, our membership cards were finally waiting for us at the pool, located down our street, in the sports complex, Panjim Gymkhana.
These past few weeks, I've been enjoying being in the groove-- researching recipes, cooking, going for morning walks and swims, exploring more of town, working on holiday projects and blogging. Today I went to the tailor to confirm a dress order and I strolled to the one coffee shop in Panjim, taking the back streets. There is something so affirming and thrilling to be in a foreign country and actually know where your going and the most efficient way of getting there. I couldn't help but feel a bounce in my step as the taxi guys hollered "taxi? taxi madam?" and I just pointed to my big stride and replied, "No thank you, I'm walking!"
Our gymkhana cards are the icing on the cake though -- it was a multi-leveled ordeal to become members, with our American lens of efficiency and logic, nothing for us comes easy here in India -- and the membership came with no less than:
2 separate doctor visits
medical notes/stamps/signatures
passport photos
copies of student ids
insistence that our Universities in the US exist
repeated conversations with managers on the same topic -- our membership
acquiring of proper attire -- 60s style-speedo (it has a pocket!) for D and purple swim cap for me
persistence
waiting in lines
a couple hundred rupees (about 3 dollars for a month of swims for the both of us)
A little different than a tour of 24 hour-fitness and running my credit card . . . The pool is AMAZING -- sparkling, diving boards, teenage boys who chat with us, a break from the heat and a chance to be a mermaid.
(dahl and broccoli sit with book and tea -- uncooked lentils and Konkani -- I think it's Konkani-- newspaper -- toor dhal starts at such a beautiful salmon-orange color, and unlike other pulses, cook very quickly and require no pre-soaking)
(I like dhal garnished with TONS of lime juice and a touch of salt -- the perfect evening meal -- very restorative and healthy)
My aunt greets me with "hiya dollface" every time I see her in Brooklyn, she also pinches my cheeks, makes me laugh and has a thousand flavors of salad dressing in her fridge. I couldn't help but utter this salutation to my dinner, as it bubbled away on the stove.
One of my favorite meals is a great dahl and a fresh vegetable. Luckily for us, we found broccoli at our last market visit. It was hiding in a corner at a wholesale stand. I made a bee-line for the green treasure, because I have missed my beloved trees so badly! In India, cauliflower, or "gobi" as they say, is much more common. I'm not sure why they lean so heavily on the white veg, but they do... With the broccoli at my side, I felt I was re-united with a dear old friend. Hey, it's the simple pleasures, right? Absence really does make the heart grow fonder!
When we first stayed in Panjim, I inquired about cooking courses to our homestay owner, and she insisted I come into her kitchen and help HER make lunch. I have to admit, this was my intention all along, and I'm so thankful --the hour or so of cooking with Gloria was so tasty and informative. She was taken aback that we were "veg," insisting on the beauty of the Goan Fish Curry -- but as I shrugged my shoulders, she carried on with lentils, lady fingers and good bread. We ate in our AC room and could not stop saying "this is the BEST dhal!" and "I love this!" and "Dhal-FACE!!" I've made this at least once per week now that we've had an apartment and it is so easy. The dish comes together in under 20 minutes and is vibrant and hearty-- a fantastic, QUICK week-night meal when served with some bread and a salad.
South Indian Dhal
(serves 4)
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 small red onions or one large one, rough chop
1 tbsp mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp turmeric
1/4 tsp chili powder
1 tsp salt
a few dashes of pepper
8 cloves garlic, minced
1 nub ginger, minced
1 1/2 c toor dhal (orange kind)
1 1/2 c water
1 1/2 c coconut milk
juice from 1 lime
for garnish:
lime, cilantro, toasted cashews and/or red peppers
Method:
heat oil on medium heat, add spices and onion, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook for another one or two minutes. Add lentils and liquids, crank up the heat to medium-high and stir continuously, until all liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Serve hot with a crusty roll, rice, broccoli or salad (I have been dreaming of salads . . . sigh). I recommend extra lime wedges for squeezing on top, as well as extra salt and pepper.
