BREAKFAST BY OON

(perfectly poached egg with simit and soft bread)


(breakfast is served atop sweet nesting tables)

Is there any better sound than that of your man saying, "I'll make breakfast, my dear."

"Let's order room service."
&
"Let me rub your feet."

Those are both good too.

But when D makes breakfast, he makes BREAKFAST. He researches a dish and gets the best ingredients and goes to town . . . He brilliantly poached eggs, 4 minutes for maximum perfection, and served them with fresh breads, raspberry jam, French butter and ginger lemon tea.

I was one happy lady.

NEIGHBOR ORHY

This just in -- so awesome! We live two blocks up the street from the former residence of acclaimed author and Nobel Laureate, Orhan Pamuk. I read his book, Istanbul, in preparation for this trip and it was a wonderful window into the city and the huzun (Turkish for "melancholy") of its inhabitants. I was totally enthralled by this old apartment building, knowing that the great writer lived in that very spot at one point . . . and wrote much about this neighborhood.

SUNDAY SAYS

BRIGHT SUNSHINEY PASTA

(pasta resting on yellow)

Good pasta and an old friend -- it just doesn't get any better than that! It's what life's all about. Kate has arrived, all the way from Boston . . . As little girls in tutus dancing by a dead Christmas tree on the curb, I never imagined us here, as 20 somethings, in Istanbul. Awh, times have gone by. Enough! Let's get back to the food. . .

I have noticed a lot of lemon juice in a few of the dishes we've had here . . . and that got me thinking to one of my Mom's most delicious pastas: one served with yogurt, lemon juice and a ton of black pepper. So, with that recipe in mind and all the delicious bright Turkish flavors and luxurious (RICH!) dairy products, I set out to make this dinner. Sort of a nouveau pasta primavera meets delicious Turkish ingredients such as green olives and roasted almonds.

We all dined, slurping up the creamy spaghetti and felt like kings and queens. Topped off with a little Turkish delight, we all went to bed full and happy.

1/2 box (or bag) of spaghetti (enough for 4 people)
3/4 c plain (whole fat!) yogurt
1/2 c milk
3 tbsp cream cheese
1/4 c hard cheese (like Parmesan, I used a salty Turkish cheese)
juice of 2 lemons
1 tbsp butter
splash of olive oil
2 tomatoes, roughly chopped
3 bell peppers, roughly chopped
2 large tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 large onion, roughly chopped
1 bunch of spinach, rinsed and trimmed
1 tsp dried thyme salt and pepper to taste (I like a lot)

for garnish:
1/3 c green olives, slivered
1/3 c toasted almonds (or hazelnuts would nice)


Method:

Prep all ingredients, getting all the chopping and slicing out of the way. Mix all dairy ingredients (cheeses, milk, yogurt, butter) and lemon juice in medium-sized bowl and set aside. In a large pan, sautee onion, tomatoes and bell peppers in olive oil for about 5 minutes. Stir in thyme to the vegetables, set these veggies aside as well.

When ready to serve, boil water for pasta -- cook until aldente, drain and throw back into the pasta pot. On medium heat, throw the yogurt mixture and veggies into the pot with the pasta. Cook until all cheeses have melted, about another 5 minutes, adding the fresh spinach at the last moment. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Plate the dish and garnish liberally with olives, toasted nuts and salt and pepper. It would be so nice with a glass of cold white wine (we had orange juice because I forgot the vino!)

Toast to friendship and spaghetti.

BLUE MOSQUE WINTER LOOK

The Blue Mosque settles into it's winter look, enrobed in white fluff. This photo (taken by D) is in color by the way, although it looks almost completely black and white, kinda neat huh? Snow IS magic. It was so quiet here. The scene took my breath away -- it was so cold, perfect and dream-like.

A WALK AROUND THE BLOCK

(stacks of simit, a Turkish bagel type of bread, sit on their trolley, awaiting their doom to snacking stomachs)


I will get to cooking and posting some new recipes soon -- but for now, I have a few images of our surroundings...

I got all bundled up and strolled around our neighborhood, Nisintasi, this morning. The feeling after having taken a long walk in a new place is one of life's best, isn't it? Sure we are in the midst of loads of fancy shops, but there are also a few sweet cafes, nice produce markets, flower stalls and I even stumbled onto a serious view of the Bosphorous. It was exhilarating!

The most ubiquitous street food (arguably the most delicious -- it's so hard to decide! I am a fiend for anything sold hot out of a cart) here is the SIMIT. Pictured above, it is eaten all day long, for some with jam and cheese in the morning, or others, just plain. It is very bagel-esque in chewiness, but there is a wonderful crusty crispiness to the outside that I haven't encountered in a bagel. The final touch is that they are blanketed in toasted sesame seeds for a distinctive light and toasty flavor. A version of simit is sold all over the middle east yet it will vary slightly from country to country or even city to city-- apparently they are a tad different (I read crispier) in Izmir, a Southwestern city in Turkey. On a sad note, I just read that as Turkey makes progress towards joining the European Union, simit is now required to be baked in a gas-powered oven, instead of the traditional wood-burning type. One of my goals while living here is to see where these carb puppies are made -- wood-burning or gas stove born, they are sublime.


(fresh flowers and pretty street numbers)

The flowers are fresh and the numbers are so pretty!


(these mannequins are style extremists)

So far, I've observed Turkish ladies to be very stylish. Think tall boots, leggings, slim coats, a fabulous hat (beret, beanie or slouchy woolly look) and serious sunglasses. The idea seems to focus on warmth while still being body conscious and sexy. I've got a lot to learn -- hoppin' around in my Asics and D's hat.

72 HOURS IN ISTANBUL

(chestnuts roasting at a street stall-- I wasn't crazy about the fatty vein running down the center -- reminded me of bacon . . . Does anyone else have this problem with chestnuts? How do you enjoy them?)

We've only been here for three days, but already we've fallen hard for our new city, Istanbul. Each mosque crazy architecture the next, each treat or street food we exclaim, "No, THIS one is the best!" chivalrous men give up their seat for me on almost all modes of transportation, the sea air, the fashionable ladies chatting over coffees, the volume level of the streets is kinda quiet and peaceful (not the crazed honking of Asia), and it even snowed . . .


(steamy chef -- right after this photo, he gave me a big thumbs up and cheeky grin. Could he see me blush through all that fog?)

We awoke to find little swirling flakes gently floating by, a city wearing a cozy white blanky. A big gust of wind came by, D affirmed "that's Santy Claus landing on the roof." Another puff a few minutes later and I said, "Mrs. Claus for sure."


(pretty old boat on the Golden Horn -- we looked at a flat down here -- the water was lovely, the air so fresh and crispy-- like biting into a perfect apple.)

The other great bit of news is that we found an apartment in the Nisantasi neighborhood. It feels like the Soho of Istanbul. A few highlights about the pad -- peach Victorian furniture, 2 large tea pots, great people-watching windows, a white bathrobe, a fancy chocolate shop across the street and a bread man right outside our building. And, even better than all that, is my oldest childhood friend, Kate, will be arriving for a visit with us in only 2 days!


(D and I attempt to eat our weight in Turkish pistachio baklava)

Email me if you want our address to send us love letters. Now, I'm off to cozy up with another cup of tea and my book. Hooray for a little nest in a big dazzling city!

SUNDAY SAYS

HANOI BUZZ

(two men chat at Hoan Kiem Lake.)

Crossing the street in Hanoi is an exercise in faith and false confidence -- the zillions of mopeds swerve gracefully around us, a sea parting for our tiny human island. My sense of security and safety has escaped with the buzz of the bikes whizzing by. An odd calm takes over and I find myself untouched and breathless on the other side . . . Being in Asia for almost five months, you'd think I'd get more relaxed about this business, but I still find my heart fluttering and my feet leaping to the curb. I've made it yet again!


(alley wall)

The buzz just ripples outwards from the steady hum of the streets -- permeating every surface and experience in Hanoi. A meditative oasis Hanoi is not, rather a city-lover's haven. Powered by the Vietnamese liquid heart-attack coffee (this stuff will make your eyeballs burst from your skull) and delicious desserts, one can easily get lost for days walking narrow streets, back alleys, and around the city lakes.


(peppers and fresh produce on the street.)

In Hanoi, even the fashions are on high-speed -- trendy sky-high boots, trim wool coats and coiffed hairstyles abound. A 5-inch Laboutin heel can push a motorbike up the curb and handle 3-point parking no problem -- A feat and understanding of space I could never accomplish in a pair of converse. My Vietnamese sisters must get their strength from the sesame street donuts.


(the alley near by the Com Chay Ha Tranh Restaurant.)

The streets here sell endless variations of the same item -- one lane dedicated to tombstones, another Chinese New Year papers and decorations, an entire block for spices and medicine/herbs, how about zippers and buttons? I swear you could find ANY button ever made here, right down the street from our hotel. Baby stuff street? check. Candy, kitchen supplies, hats, pajamas, toys, watches, books, silks --every commodity demands a street with at least 10 different stalls selling the EXACT same goods. My American sense of capitalism and diverse marketing strategies (like a sale or a way to stand out) just go nuts. How can they all co-exist? They do well! And the vendors (competitors?) sit down for Pho (Vietnamese street soup) together for lunch. Mind boggling.


(a perfect cappuccino speaks for itself.)

It's a little tougher being vegetarian here than other countries -- the concept of "no meat" and my hand gestures in a big x while pointing at cow parts are loosely interpreted... There is an exception to the difficulty of finding vegetarian food though -- a short walk down a good-looking alley will lead you to Com Chay Ha Tranh, the hand holding a lotus on the sign will beckon you to come into the unassuming restaurant (with about 30 other crammed locals) and tuck into a bowl of purely vegetarian pho or whatever other faux-meat dish you can imagine. Veg or non-veg, this place has got funky delicious flavors for about 1.00 US per dish. I didn't venture into the vegetarian pig ears, but if you've got the curiosity, they've got the fake-meat counterpart to almost all things animal . . .


(the end of the bun bo hue, so sad it's over.)

Our Bun Bo Hue (a huge bowl of noodle soup with fake beef) was a wonderful example of sour, sweet, salty, fresh and hot (both in temperature and flavor), a harmonizing combination of all the flavors that so characterize Vietnamese cooking. After a big bowl of soup, we indulge in a pastry at L'Epicerie du Metropole -- it's divine and pairs perfectly with a strong Vietnamese-style coffee with condensed milk or an "Italian style" cappuccino. Good thing we're well-fueled and high off the sugar and caffeine --you've got to be alert and buzzin to truly take this place in.


If you go:

Hanoi Opera House -- classic French architecture, lovely to people-watch on its steps
1 Trang Tien St.
Tel: 84.04.(9330113 - 9330114 - 9330131- 9330132)
www.nhahatlon.org.vn

Hoan Kiem Lake -- do as the locals and do a brisk stroll, pausing for stretches and boba tea
Hoan Kiem District

Cinametechque -- Art House Movie theater, wine and sodas are available to bring into the movie
22A Hai Ba Trung
Hoan Kiem District
84-04 936 2648

L'Epicerie du Metropole -- the most perfect chocolate tart on Earth
Hotel Metropole Hanoi
Le Phung Hieu St.
Hanoi
tel. (84-4) 3826 6919 ext. 8702
sofitelhanoi@hn.vnn.vn

Thai Express -- lacking in atmosphere (like being in a mall restaurant), but the yellow curry with tofu and mango salad (a favorite of the Thai Princesses, so the menu says) are fresh and delicious
No. 7 Dinh Tien Hoang
Hoan Kiem District
tel. (+84-4) 62 822 822

Com Chay Ha Tranh -- unbelievable vegetarian restaurant, down a superb alley
116 ngo 166 Kim Ma
Ba Dinh District
tel: 04 37263381

DA HALONG BAY

(view from our boat)

After four hours of sitting in a half-seat on a cramped bus, and a pit stop at a crazed tourist emporium . . . We made it onto the junk (that's what they call these boats here) and into the Halong Bay. After much debate whether or not the excursion would be too touristy or lame or whatever -- we arrived and it was SPECTACULAR!!

The seascape and limestone rock formations were out-of-this-world beautiful. We couldn't help but sing the Jurassic Park theme song the entire time (I'm listening to it again as I type this, as per D's request and it's so rad), the craggy cliffs and greenery were just so easy to imagine dinosaurs, sea monsters and dragons prancing upon. Between the mist, the good company of our boat mates and the 20 minutes of sunshine that poked out while we paddled around the coves, the Halong Bay was divine.



(me looking out, cozy in the cabin -- photo by D)

Cuddling in the cabin and feeling the boat sway while watching the cliffs go by was one of my favorite parts of the Halong Bay.



(all kinds of fruits are available, even all the way out at sea)

Lastly, my interest in fruits was satisfied even out at sea! There was many different types to choose from, sadly we had no change and the young girl sellers (on wooden rafts!) wouldn't budge with their prices... So we settled for eating peanut butter and Ritz crackers in our room, while playing dominoes waiting for dinner to be served. Next trip to the Halong Bay, I'll bring smaller amounts of dong.

SUNDAY SAYS

I DID A VERY BAD THING

I bought a few of EACH candy at the grocery store the other day. I realize after looking through the last few posts from Vietnam, I am having a bit of a problem with the ole sweet tooth! The treats here are so intriguing though -- some of the candies have such a gummy texture -- more like eating rubber than a sweety. The packaging is so cute though, it's hard to resist. Look at that chocolate -- it's called "Feeling." We also saw a big box of chocolates that had a large cursive label that read "Warmly." I guess the chocolates inside are supposed to make you feel cozy?

Okay, okay, so I have been eating a little too much candy lately, but a guy next to us at the supermarket had a downright addiction -- he was filling up bag after bag of the "corn candy." We thought they must be good, how could someone get that much of ONE candy and it not be good? Well, they tasted like chewing on a piece of yellow tire, with a faint essence of popcorn butter and plastic as the end note -- not worth the energy it took to gnaw through the darn thing. The chocolate? It was a disgrace to the word "chocolate." . . . an experience akin to sucking on a dab of crisco -- an absolutely flavorless tragedy.



These gummy squares are lovely to look at and one of my favorite candies tasted thus far -- a mix between a Turkish delight and a sour-patch kid. Their flavor is not too artificial and their pastel color is so light and pretty.



Lastly, look at these pandas cuddling! What they lack in texture and flavor (plastic bouncy ball), they make up for in cuteness.

The candy tasting did teach me a few things -- there are people who detest chewiness in their textural eating experiences and those in the other camp, who enjoy the chew (we enjoy boba tea, sour gummy worms, sour jelly beans, etc.). I always put myself into the chewy camp . . . but now I realize there's a whole other level, like the corn candy man (expert connoisseur?). I'm not sure if I'll ever get so chewy, but I accept my mid-level status. Now, onto a healthy dinner and a good teeth-brushing.

GUEST POST ON MOCHATINI

I had the opportunity to write a piece and create images of the textures of Vietnam at a wonderful style blog, Mochatini.org, authored by the lovely Manvi. Want to see and know what Vietnam feels like?

Click here.

MANGOS, TASTY CRUST AND CHOCOLATE--OH MY!

(the most divine chocolate tart rests on the white comforter in our hotel room -- it looks so innocent before being devoured!)


(A flowery mango is scored and placed atop slightly sweetened sticky rice, swimming in a warm bath of coconut cream. This was the best version of this beloved dish that I've ever had -- served at Thai Express in Hanoi. {Photo by David})

One of the many wonderful aspects of traveling in Vietnam and sampling the country's complex cuisine is the attention to delicious desserts. From the French tradition of tarts and macarons to the use of local ingredients such as mangos, coconut milk and sticky rice -- the variation is dazzling, the flavors and mixture of East/West harmonious. In fact, we just brought the world's most elegant chocolate tart back to our room (to eat in bed!) from Hanoi's swankiest Hotel, Sofitel Metropole. The crust was so tender and buttery, it reignited my quest for the perfect tart and pie crust . . . There is so much contention and passion surrounding the topic --

What's the secret to your crust?

Also, the ganache filling was bursting with cocoa velvet-smooth luxury -- each bite a winning example of textural and taste contrasts. Superb! Perfect pastry, mango desserts -- they both awaken my senses and take me to my happy place.

THE HUSBAND & THE HELMET

In Vietnam, almost everyone drives a moped and wears a helmet. This is quite different than India where you'd see tons of people on their scooter or motorcycle and their helmet dangling on the handlebars, not atop their head! It seems here they see their helmet as another fashion accessory -- to be flaunted and customized -- there's an endless quantity of choices. I want one just for bicycle-riding in Portland!

So far, this is our favorite style (helmet comes with aviator goggles) -- Is my husband not a total looker with fabulous taste? I think so.

SESAME DONUT BLISS

(a man and woman work together to prepare the fluffy donuts -- he rolls and prepares dough, she stirs donuts in oil with exceptionally long chopsticks)

One of my favorite places to eat is on the street. In foreign lands and at home, in Portland's bezerk food cart scene -- there's just something really soulful and satisfying about eating something you can watch be cooked, usually over a high heat, and handed to you on a paper plate or in a napkin. Street food is cheap, delicious and often much safer than eating in a fancy hotel, where ingredients may have been lying around for hours, perhaps getting funky (not fun for the traveler's belly). So when Dave and I stopped and watched this team make simple sesame donuts, (we were entranced) and thought to get one and "eat just a bite." Little bites turned into big bites and then we ate the whole thing because it was perfect. It made me create a new rule -- fried foods are only to be eaten fresh off the fryer. This donut was so far from a dough ball sitting in a pink box (I'm still enamored with those pretty pink bakery boxes though) at an office room, I swore I'd never eat a tired, sad limp fried good again. These street donuts were hardly sweet, with a light sesame flavor, a steaming interior and perfect ratio of golden crust to pillowy insides. It was sesame donut bliss for sure!

SUNDAY SAYS

BEHOLD THE DRAGON

The dragon FRUIT that is! Visually, this sublime piece of pink, white and black art may trump all others . . . The flavor is pretty good -- sort of a cross between a kiwi and mellow melon. It lacks the sweet tang I so enjoy in most tropical fruits, such as the mango or the pineapple, but I've never seen such an extraordinary thing before coming to Vietnam. The dragon fruit is common eating here (yummy) and for bringing to the pagoda, as an offering to Buddha, a goddess or an ancestor. I know you are probably sick of hearing of fruits by now, but I'm totally obsessed and can't help myself. The produce in Vietnam is very delicious and meticulously displayed -- a wonderful array of new tastes for D and I. Hurrah!

DOMINOES

There's been a whole lot of this game for us the past few days -- It's raining and cold in Hue. We are a bit tired from life on the road . . . Not all days are fun and spectacular. I'm always grateful to have my crazy travel buddy, D, though. Trouble is, lately he's been whoopin' me at Dominoes--I'm going to have to retaliate later on today over a cup of '3 in 1' coffee (strangely delicious coffee/hot cocoa-like substance with sugar and creamer included in the concoction). What do you do to fend off the blues when traveling?

MARBLE MOUNTAIN

(a 1-foot tall iridescent goddess in the cave greets you as you enter)

Marble Mountain, about 6 miles south of Da Nang, is a Buddhist cave complex. It is full of nooks and crannies, small shrines, magical light, musty damp smells, incense and sacred energy. D and I took "xe oms," motorbike taxis to get there -- a swell drive along the beach. The coastal air and heat reminded me so much of a summer's day in Santa Barbara . . . Weird to be on the other side of the world with the exact weather conditions of mid-August, memories as a teenager spent lazily working on my tan on the shores of the Pacific Ocean swirling by.


(a small shrine glimmers in dappled light)

One of my favorite parts of being in a Buddhist or Chinese Temple is all the tiny altars people create along with their prayers. A variety of items -- fruit, papers, incense, flowers, candles, photos, and figurines -- are placed ever-so-carefully into a tender arrangement. The conglomeration of stuff is so purposeful, humble and beautiful. It always inspires me to arrange my own items, even if they are just travel things (suitcase, pajamas, snacks), with a little more care.


(the 'lucky buddha' stands alone in a large cave -- he was about 12 feet tall and very peaceful)

The Lucky Buddha was really big and special. He stood grounded in the damp and mossy cave, although his presence was very cosmic and other-worldly. The whole place and climbing through the caves and taking in the sea-views was just superb -- a must if passing through Central Vietnam.